Graft of full single Crack

 

I put as example a Graft of Cherry tree on a sucker of Sour cherry tree.

 

This type of graft can be done in all the rosaceous arboreal plants of caducous leaf in hibernation and other trees whenever they are of caducous leaf and in hibernation at the moment of making the graft, that is to say, from half-full to end of Winter.

 

I have successfully done it in:

 

-Almond tree.

-Peach tree.

-Plum tree.

-Cherry tree.

-Sour cherry tree.

-Quince.

-European medlar tree.

-Apricot.

-Apple tree.

-Kiwi.

-Pear tree.

-Pistachio.

-Nashi.

-Pomegranate tree.

 

Also it is possible to be done in trees and shrubs of perennial leaf from end of Winter to end of Spring, changing the stake by a little branch with leaves and covering the graft with a transparent plastic bag during several weeks, to avoid its dehydration.

 

The same previous method can be applied to the grapevines of vineyard and grapevines of vine arbor at the height of summer from end of June to principles of August, choosing the stakes of still slightly green new vine shoot of the year and with a already mature bud (this method in green receives the name of herbaceous Graft). The graft in the Grapevine becomes just as in the indicated species or with a stake with a single bud or at the most two, cutting the leaf that accompanies to the bud leaving petiole and wetting the stake with clean water once made the graft. Later the graft is covered with plastic bag during 2 or 3 weeks, protecting it of the intense sun with the shade of a branch. Usually they take hold quickly and, if they become before finishing month of July, the bud appears to the 15 or 20 days.

 

In the first place it is cut with scissors to prune the sucker or host to the wished height, thinking about the height that we want that the grafted tree has.

We part by half in longitudinal sense the host with a knife to graft.

The cut agrees that it is of between 5 and 10 cm., depending on the thickness of the stake to graft: the more heavy it is the more long must be the cut.

The host divided in form of V, where the stake of the graft will be inserted.

With the knife to graft reduce in bevel the stakes to graft by both sides like a wedge (It is very important that the host and the stake to graft have the same diameter exactly).

The reduced stake in form of wedge seen from the reduced side .

Put the stake within the longitudinal section of the host, trying that the crust of the host touch the crust of the stake, in order that the cambium of both can be united.

The two parts of the graft adjust well.

The union is tied with raphia to graft.

This paste or mastic to graft is excellent, since, once dry, it acquires plastic consistency perfectly, waterproofing the graft and avoiding losses of humidity, as well as preventing the development of fungi that could rot the graft, since it have fungicide substances.

If you have pruned the terminal bud (very advisable thing already which it stimulates the sprout of the lateral buds), you must to also put mastic in the terminal end of the stake to avoid the dehydration of the stake.

The smeared of all the graft is continued, to obtain a hermetic closing.

And the graft of full single Crack is already done. Now only remain to wait for a few weeks, to see the results.

 

I hope that these explanations accompanied by photos are to them useful.

Passed 50 days this one it is the result.